| The long dirt road Chalillo snaked up through forests Maya Mountains Belize potholes gouged tropical rain were so deep I wondered if four-wheel-drive would make it.
|  | | The work well advanced. |
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Our first sight bleak encampment construction workers.
Row upon row huts, surrounded sea mud, house teams hired far afield China, Nepal India.
As waited escorted dam site itself, Chinese workers were preparing feast celebrate their New Year their laughter rose above gentle sounds table tennis.
Two project's senior engineers led us further into mountains, cars eventually stopping on sharp bend overlooking deep valley Macal River.
Far below lay pale scars bare earth where jungle had been stripped make way access roads assembly areas.
I hadn't realised how advanced project was: heavy vehicles were place along with massive rock-crusher two storage towers cement.
Standing amid these giant works, hardly seemed feasible panel British judges, sitting on Privy Council, could actually bring halt.
The dam's developers, Belize Electricity Company, adm PR battle has hurt them – who could match protesting Cameron Diaz canoe? – but certainly believe nothing will stop project being completed.
The case turns on whether environmental assessment adequately handled.
Campaigners argue rock dam site sandstone not granite developers once claimed fault-line running right over site conveniently removed key map.
The electricity company says its opponents latch on smallest error blow out proportion.
| Like so many projects kind, it's questionof balance betweenencouraging development minimising destruction. |  | What will lost? What will gained? |
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Belize's image an eco-friendly tourist destination may suffer if dam goes ahead. On other hand, asks senior electricity executive, how will those tourists enjoy air-conditioning if don't go ahead?
The dilemma clear. problem effects dam are likely irreversible.
During my stay, I cooled an electrically powered fan but woke gentle orchestra bird-song rising banks river may changed ever.